Expat Life: Itching the World Around

by Miss Footloose
Armenian yogurt

Madzoon: Armenian yogurt

When you travel around the world and live in foreign countries, you hope you don’t get to deal with serious or annoying medical issues involving pain, breaking bones, itching. But invariably you do. Or at least I did. I had malaria once, and I broke my leg in a rainforest, and well, it’s kind of boring to hear other people’s medical catastrophes, but I thought you might want to read this itchy one because it’s sort of a mystery story that travels all over the world itself. It begins in Ghana, West Africa, but I’ll pick it up in Armenia, a small isolated country in the Caucasus Mountain. So here goes:


Going Crazy

“No bathing for a week,” the Armenian dermatologist tells me.

I stare at him. Did I hear this right?

“And for eating, only boiled beef and madzoon.” Madzoon is yogurt, holy food in Armenia. You will suffer if you don’t have your daily dose.

The above instructions are given me in order to start a search for whatever is giving me an allergic reaction and causing me to itch like a fleabag chimpanzee. It’s been going on now for almost a year and it’s driving me nuts, bananas and crazy. Not to speak of desperate. I don’t like to scratch myself in public, at the butcher shop or at dinner with friends. It’s so uncouth, don’t you think?

I glance from the Armenian specialist to the Indian GP (general practitioner, family doctor). The Indian doctor works on contract with this private clinic. He has requested the dermatologist to come to the clinic to examine me. It’s how it is sometimes done in this very nice, shiny clinic in Yerevan, the capital of Armenia. Clients who need specialized care do not always visit other doctors at their addresses because often these physicians work at government hospitals and have no private practice of their own. So they come to this private clinic for a little consulting on the side.

The reason my Indian doctor has requested the dermatologist to check me out is because he himself is at a loss to cure me of my mysterious itch. He’s tried his Indian magic and his western medicine magic and now it is time for the Armenian specialist to try his Armenian magic.

Boiled beef and yogurt, and no bathing for a week

The consulting specialist is speaking Russian to the Indian GP, who has studied in Russia, and who translates this into English for me, a Dutch person living in Armenia, and who can fortunately manage in English. Yes, I live an international existence, itch and all.

“No bathing for a week?” I say. To stop itching?

The Indian doctor seems a bit embarrassed. The specialist looks impatient. He is a big man with a huge vodka-and-barbecue belly and an unshaven face. No white coat, just ill-fitting, rumpled trousers, shirt and jacket, no tie. Very unusual in Armenia, where appearance is everything and you don’t leave the house until you’re groomed and spiffed to within an inch of your life. This one looks like he slept in his clothes, just crawled out of bed and arrived at the clinic at the ungodly hour of 9 in the morning to see this expatriate woman with her mysterious itch.

I go home. I do not follow the given advice. I stop itching only because my Indian doctor gives me antihistamines, but soon enough I will start another round of itching.

Of mystery and despair

I’ve itched for a year and a half. It comes and goes mysteriously. Every time it goes away and I haven’t itched for a week or so, I pray this is the end. The Itch Witch has found someone else to terrorize and I’m in the clear.

But no. She keeps coming back for days or weeks at a time to make my life miserable. I have a yearly physical in the US, but the one time I’m hoping to have a huge flaming scratchy case of the itchies I am symptom free. The exam and the blood tests say I’m in perfect health. Nothing going on with my internal organs. Maybe it’s all in my head. Maybe I am tired of this expat life, maybe I need tranquilizers. Anything. Just somebody tell me!!

It started while I was still living in Ghana, a very steamy tropical African country, and the first symptoms were itching around my hair line and behind my ears and I was in an instant panic of having caught head lice. Well, I fly a lot. Who knows if the head that has rested against the back of the seat on an earlier trip was not infested with varmint? But various medical professionals at three different times examined me and found no evidence of this. Nor evidence of anything else, because at the time I managed to get into their offices for an appointment, I was symptom free. Two days later, or a week later, I’d be itching again, but by then I was on a plane.

An allergy of some sort. But what? I change laundry detergent, soap, anything I can think off. Nothing helps. I wake up in the morning with scratches on my stomach.

I itched in Ghana.

I itch in Armenia,

I itch in Italy on vacation,

I itch in Holland at my mother’s house.

I itch in the US, except when I have a doctor’s appointment.

I learn gruesome things

I start surfing the net, googling dermatology and itch and so on. Maybe I have some horrible tropical disease — tropical rat mite dermatitis, scabies — there are plenty to choose from, but let me not bore you with the gruesome things I learn. However, nothing seems to quite fit my symptoms. So it’s probably something rare and exotic I picked up in the tropics and that’s not yet found its way on Google, and I’ll be dead soon.

But I don’t die. The itch stops. And the Itch Witch stays away. For weeks and months. I do not know what has happened.I’ve done nothing different, I still live in Armenia, I have not changed climates, houses, or husbands. It stays away wherever I travel and a year later it is still gone. I am mysteriously cured. More months go by. Another year goes by.

Then one day the Itch Witch comes back

With a vengeance. I itch at my hairline, behind my ears, I have red welts all over my belly and I wake up with scratches.

My despair knows no bounds. Why, oh why? I wander around the house in numb despair. I still live in Armenia. Nothing has changed. I have not moved to a different location. I have not changed climates, foods, nothing.

I am in the kitchen, scratching myself like a monkey in a cage and my eyes catch the fruit bowl.

Bananas. B A N A N A S !!!

Something has changed, indeed.

This is what happened

Two years ago my mate and I decided to lose a few pounds. We left out some of the more starchy foods in our diets, like bananas. Then we forgot about the diet but didn’t go back to eating bananas because there is so much other wonderful fruit in Armenia, so why eat the imported stuff?

Fruit Market in Yerevan, Armenia. Photo by Rita Willaert

So no bananas. Until a few days ago. When my man said, “We haven’t had bananas for a while. Let’s have some for our cereal.” So I’ve had one with breaksfast the last couple of days. And ate some for a snack and had a couple more because they were getting ripe and really they were kind of nice even if not nearly as good as the ones we used to get in Africa. We had so many bananas in Ghana, daily, and I loved them. I had them all the time. ALL THE TIME!

No wonder my body said: ENOUGH!

And here it is, saying it again: ENOUGH WITH THE BANANAS ALREADY!

Well, I hope that’s what it is. I take a deep, hopeful breath and say goodbye to bananas. I send up fervent prayers to the banana god, to the itch god, to any god who’ll listen.

And the Itch Witch goes away never to return.

The End!

* * *

Go ahead tell me your itchy stories, your medical mysteries, your weird medical prescriptions.

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Oh, I have way too many! Things I never imagined.
My husband had itchies for 7 years and it turned out to be a parasitic infection from the river.

What an entertaining read… I once went through a period when my eyes would swell with hives for no apparent reason. Then one day it just stopped. I still have no idea what the cause was.

Love your adventures!


You mean it was just bananas?? Hope your itch is gone for good!

My husband travels all around the world for work, and he’s contracted many strange maladies. He’s also allergic to melon, strawberries, avacados and tomatoes, which make him itch. You guys have a lot in common.

At least you found out what it was, so the Armenian doctor did have a point: start with a few things and then work your way back to your full diet!

I used to itch a lot from Buttermilk soap. I spent a whole day balanced on my left heel, my right thigh and my upper back! As soon as I stopped using it, the itch went away. Fortunately…


Great story, do let us know about the bananas! I have so many mosquito and I don’t know what else bites at the moment. The heat and humidity seems to just bring them out!


I’ve never heard of a banana allergy! I can’t believe you figured it out. How mysterious! LOVE LOVE LOVE your ‘attack bananas’ photo. Perfect! Sometimes I get what looks like ant bites on a few of my fingers. Finally I figured out that if I wash my hands after applying sunscreen they stay away, but sometimes they reappear. Weird!

This is amazing. I have suffered from the exact same itch, though mine is only on my scalp. It is absolutely infuriating. I’ve been to all sorts of dermatologists in four different countries, and nobody can find anything wrong with my scalp. No dandruff, no head lice, and nothing else that anyone can spot. I am DEFINITELY going to cut out bananas and we’ll see what happens!

My husband has suffered from itchies off and on since we traveled to South Africa a few years ago. He was bitten by a spider there and got very ill. When we got home he went to local docs who said something like “why didn’t you see a doctor there? What do I know about South African spiders?” I hope your itchies are gone forever!

@ Jungle Mom, I knew I could count on you 😉 I was thinking about your kids playing in the river. Any problem with bilharzia (schistosmiasis – sp?) ? @ Jayne, good thing it stopped! Very mysterious. @ Scintilla, yep, it was just bananas! @ Elizabeth B. Yourpoor husband! Fortunately I’m not allergic to any other fruit (so far)! @ Mara, buttermilk soap! Isn’t it amazing! Can you drink buttermilk without trouble? @ Karen, oh yes, the mosquitoes will give you the itches for sure. They LOVE me, which is not a good thing in the tropics so I mainline… Read more »

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